Yes, that was the idea 
Well, I just put an order on a new rail front sight. Better safe than sorry.
Even if the one I left at the engraving villa is not damaged, I will still use this new one as a spare for a future project.
Just came back from the engraving villa. Final result pushed for another 2 more months at least.
Good part is that the trigger is now perfectly fit. By all the things I made I didn’t imagine the trigger could give me so much trouble.
I even left it for last because I though it was the easiest part. In the end I had to do a modification to the frame itself to make it slide in there.
This picture under is just one example of the one too many specific indication I give to achieve perfection.
Bad part is that the front sight is ruined.
I am very glad I anticipated this and ordered a new one but I will not have it until the end of this month. After which I have to go back to the villa and wait again another month maybe till they have time to shape it like the previous one.
Another part I left to polish was the hammer and the grip safety.
As I said in an earlier post the colors do not match and there is no way I can get out that exact grey color out of it like the rest of the gun. So I decided to polish them giving a silver look that goes along with the sides of the slide and frame.
Looks pretty good but I am not 100% convinced. I can make my mind only when the pistol will be fully assembled.
For now I have to go along.
@badeaguard I thought I’ll let you know here. It’s been over 2 years since I kinda put my Silverballer project aside after we talked about that Vorsk Agency VX-9 replica and how bad it is for engraving and I basically abandoned the project after asking some places about engraving it, but some time ago I came across an airsoft tech on Youtube (also in Poland) who is making markings on airsoft replicas using electroetching (I think that’s how it’s called in English), so I finally got back to the project and got the markings and medallions done on that Vorsk. It was kinda a risk if it would turn out OK due to the chrome finish (would be much easier to get the black version of that Vorsk instead of silver, because black one is just painted so it’s easier to strip the paint and then work on bare metal than working on that chrome layer), but in the end it turned out pretty good. Obviously it’s not the professional level as yours but still looks good and makes a huge difference compared to how it looked before without any markings. He also made the medallions for me by modifying the original inserts. I’m really happy with the final result. As a display piece it’s great.
Yes, I know that some details of the markings and font are off, but that’s not a big deal. And it’s not like I paid huge money for it either.
Well look at that. It looks good 
The engravings are not that off. Actually it’s better this way because you can focus on them and admire it as a Silverballer. I am very happy for you that in the end you found someone who can do them.
Speaking of which, I had the chance again to touch this gun and I was still impressed how light it was and how bad it looked in reality.
But overall it’s a cool replica and almost the exact same Silverballer you see in Absolution.
They bother to make the trigger, sights and grips perfect but not the hammer and the extended slide and thumb safety.
And they perfectly did the base pad magazine too. In fact the only thing I kept from this gun was the magazine. I can still do it but that would cost over 300€ for 3D project, titanium printing and black painting. So for now I will go with this.
Another visit today at the engraving villa. I left the front rail sight for polishing and I came back for a short time with the body of the Silverballer to check the last details.
Once assembled I walked around the house with the pistol in my hand saying out loud “holly shit” numerous times.
Every time I went to visit the villa seeing just the slide and the frame only without the accessories on felt very off most of the time and I started to have serious doubts if the incisions came out good, if the size is truly precise.
Once everything was put together it felt like I pulled it out right from the game. It’s perfect, it’s incredible and so beautiful.
Still I have some doubts about some colors here and there but I will take care of that. For now it is truly perfect.
Missing just the rails on top and I want to make the finish better on the sides.
Deep engravings
The color of the titanium matches the rest of the gun.
I decided to brush the finish just on the sides matching the design from the rest of the slide and grame.
Pictures of the owner Signor Giovanelli gifting custom made accessories to the popes during the years.
Having my Silverballer made by these people is another reason this replica is so special and unique.
So I was just messing a bit with different housings (back piece of the lower grip) and I think I changed my mind about that Codename 47 Hardballer mix.
Looks so much better silver.
Hitman Codename 47 is the only one where the housing is black and I wanted to add that from it.
But I might just stick with the silver one and make another version following almost the exact design from Codename 47 a part from the markings 
I was thinking about it a lot lately.
This is an old picture from my mark 3 but it checks out. On this version, if I will make it, there will be no rib sights but a real LPA rear sight and a custom made front sight following the Hardballer’s Codename 47 design which is the same from the current version but without the straight line under it.
Silver is much better 
really gives the best Silverballer vibe.
The front is also shinny (bushing and guide plug) and so will be the rails on top matching front and back finish.
I had my doubts when I was thinking about this combination but the more I look at it the more I love it and feels perfect.
Looks lovely, can’t wait to see how it will look with the top rib on the slide. Without it it still looks like regular 1911 instead of Hardballer.
Are you gonna modify the Pachmayr grips to make the shape of the rubber part correct to how it is in game? It’s still too pointy at the top instead of being round like in game. Vorsk grips perfectly replicate the shape of the rubber part.
Btw, use black inner barrel so it won’t be visible at all when looking at the muzzle. PDI Palsonite are the top quality barrels and they have black coating. That’s what I use in couple of my Beretta replicas. Best to order them directly from PDI in Japan, it’s cheaper than in EU.
I can’t do that on these grips. After all it still remains a combination of what is in the game and what is in the real world. So I really don’t mind it.
The only modifications I did on the grips was to cut off the rubber on top and bottom to be the same as in the game and sand off a bit the wood to make it look better especially in color tone.
Original Pachmayr grips model
Modified Pachmayr grips
In game grips
This is temporary. I will remove the paint and polish it after it’s done.
Hi
I cant believe the amount of detail and commitment to this, it is amazing. I have been using this.as a guide to build my own silverballer, so than you!!
For some background, Im from Australia, and if you dont know airsoft is illegal here, but we have an alternative know as gelblasters. Its basically converted airsoft to fire 7-8mm hydrated water beads instead of a plastic bb.
Gelblasters have only been legal here and currently only in 2 states of the country for about 6years, so the range and availability is very limited and expensive.
Thankfully we have some We tech and a small assortment of Tokyo Marui, but most of out range is low quality stuff.
My replica has started with a Golden eagle (terrible quality) 1911 in a chrome finish and a pair of pachmayr grips that are very hard to find locally. I recently purchased a WE tech polished finished 1911 to start again, should be arriving in a couple of days.
I managed to find a airsoft supplier in the UK to source the extended thumb safety, extended slide lock and flat spring housing. I just hope these make it through customs as these 3 parts alone cost me nearly $200aud which is about half the cost of the We tech 1911.
I made a pair of grip medallions my self, they aren’t 100% accurate but they cost nothing but time and a handful of bolts. I turned the bolts done on a lathe to the original pachmayr size. I borrowed my daughters cricut vinyl cutter to make a “mask” then electro etched the symbol in.
I found a Guarder suppressor from a local gelblaster supplier and modified it to look the part. And i have the collectors case from the hitman game to display it all in when its finished.
This is the what i have so far, will update whe i have the We tech and associated parts. I have also found someone to laser engrave the slide and frame.
My man, thank you so much. You have no idea how a lot this means to me to be recognize around the world for my work. Truly thank you.
I do recall something but I forgot it was this bad. At the end they are just toys and they could make a law where you can only use it in your house or private property at least.
Shame because some of them are worthy collectibles.
Now about your replica, if you noticed most of my accessories are created. Actually they are 3D printed and then polished. Not by me but by other people.
The only thing I did on my replica was having ideas, coming up with a design in literally paint and then hire people to make my projects come true.
So I had someone who did the 3D projects files only
A company that printed them
Another set of people to polish them and work around them
And this is what I am suggesting you to do:
Find online near you someone with a passion for 3D printing. Get in touch with them and talk about your project.
You give them your piece (slide stop)
and tell them that you want them inside to be modeled just like the piece you gave them but outside has to look like a wallpaper of the Silverballer you provided
Final result is you having this in hand
Sound easy but is not. At least it wasn’t for me.
I started from fun went to ambition ended in obsession where I spend I think near 2000€ just for 3D modeling files.
In fact summing up all that I have spent so far on all my replicas till today I am at quota 15.000€.
But don’t get scared, this is from a period of 9 years and mostly all the things were mistakes that led me to perfecting things. If I have to make one again it would cost something near 5.000€ if not more.
When you let your piece to this person remember you have to give him/her the whole gun because he or she has to take some measurements and decisions.
Now this is just someone who makes you the files. After that you need yo find a company that prints them in metal or I made mine in titanium.
DO NOT TELL THEM THEY ARE GUN PARTS even if it’s for a toy. They will not print them for you and they will add you on a black list.
In fact say nothing. Just send them the files and ask for a price. If they are curious what they are just say they moving parts from modeling toys like a train or something.
When I printed the trigger I told them it was a fancy design minimalist home light switch 
After all this you need now someone who can make you the surface just like your pistol. In your case nickel polished.
These are the pieces you need to make because there are nowhere to be found just like the Silverballer. They do not exist unless you make them.
And these are the parts that you can buy that are for me just perfect.
In the end I believe it is only right you keep a bit of reality from what you find on a real gun. The Silverballer on these pieces doesn’t change that much to be noticeable.
Same 3D discussion goes for these little fellows.
I made the medallions blank then with the help of the same people who engrave my pistol we made the logo. They craved in the sides of the logo and then filled up those spaces with black paint.
I was admiring that. Looks beautiful.
About engraving that pistol is a pain in the ass so keep your old one to make tests on it before doing it perfect on the prime replica.
And this is all if you have questions during your progression please share. I am always happy to help and give advice.
A fun fact. I was replicating that logo from the case you have way before they made it 
I had all the projects shared on the old forum. Just images of 3D files and never had the chance to print them. My project was and still is a replica of the Contracts briefcase from the cutscenes.
They follow my threads and with my big surprise they actually made their commercial version of it.
That logo there was first used in Hitman 2 Silent Assassin and last time in Hitman Contracts. Since then, 2004, it was completely forgotten until I brought it up in 2017.
As you can see I have a lot more in store than just the perfect Silverballer replica
Thank you for your reply. Honestly if i didnt come across this thread i wouldn’t have started this. Are you willing to sell some of your 3d models, specifically the lpa sight?
I am deep into this rabbit hole now!! I have found during my research We tech isnt the best base for this replica so this will be my test and more a “tribute”. It will depend on the parts i have coming from the UK an if they fit or not.
My other plan once i arrange supply is again going with a brand calles guarder. They make a very nice silver cerakote 1911 frame I can polish the appropriate parts to be more accurate. Its full TM spec so a much easier bass to purchase parts for. The best part about this frame kit is the slide has a removable front and rear sight, making it easier to fit a custom hitman sight.
I will update with a phot reply when my parts arrive. They have hit my capital city so hopefully next week once they clear customs.
Dude I can’t wait to see more of that case !!!
That will be for one day. I am eyeballing 2 companies near me that seems to do very good cases for all needs. From cases for bicycles to cases for weapons and pro athletes who have to carry their equipment in a very safe manner.
In the meanwhile here is the final project that I have in mind:
What I did is only compatible for my replica a INOKATSU Colt series 70. This pistol is the most accurate replica ever made of a 1911 especially in size. Its longer than any 1911 replica out there and the pieces have a totally different size and mechanic from a WE.
But you can buy the LPA sight. The Silverballer one is just a reimagining of it like the other accessories.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1005854836?pid=615679
You can remove the ones from the WE too. My Mark 1 was on that gun. They come off with a bit of force but nothing serious that will damage the slide. So give it a try on the old one.
The rear sight you can knock it off with a hammer by hitting it from the side.
Instead the front one you need something like this and just move it left right left right till it doesn’t break off.
Let’s see a picture. Is it Marui brand? Marui has a very vast network of third party parts. Very good parts.
I say the only things left for you to make and print are the Slide release and Thumb safety, trigger and front sight with the rail.
This is the rail
Guarders main purpose is to replace all the plastic bits on Tokyo Marui products. The do alot of frame kits. I have 2 currently a desert eagle and m92 beretta quality and accuracy is amazing down to the trades where available and allowed.
This is the frame kit
http://www.intrudershop.com/show_product_eng.asp?idproduct=3057#top
Ill have to pull apart my we tonight and have ago at removing the sights
Oh this one is so beautiful. Go for it, I approve
If you can manage from the same website buy:
70s Hammer
Serrated housing
Grip safety (look for the exact model the Silverballer has)
1911 bushing
1911 recoil spring guide plug
Steel Magazine Release Catch
Plunger tube cap
If not search online for the best ones available made in Stainless Steel.
But maybe you can find a kit with all these things already instead of buying them separate.
So my parts showed up yesterday
Extneded safely
Extended slide lock
Flat spring housing (needs small adjustment to fit)
Heading into workshop today to make an extended guide rod and modify spring housing.
I havent been able to find the right hammer so im going to have a go at modifying a standard 1911 one
